Archive for April, 2010

Wolf’s fart mushrooms

Friday, April 23rd, 2010
Giant puffball mushroom

Giant puffball mushroom

Walking in the hills above Zubieta, in Navarra I come across some immense globular mushrooms. They look like giant puffballs to me. Fresh, puffballs have a wonderfully earthy smell. Cooked, they have a nutty flavour and a texture rather like aubergines. In principle puffballs are easy to recognise – no stem and no gills.

Just to be safe, I stop a passing tractor. “I don’t know what they are called but, no, they are not edible,” I am told. At a nearby farm I ask again. “It’s a Bejin de puta – tart’s mushroom. No good.” says the woman, but her father is more circumspect. “You may be able to eat it. I wouldn’t!”

But the more I search on the internet, the more I am convinced that my specimen is indeed an edible puffball. I find various names for it in Spanish (Bejín, Pedo de lobo, Cuesco de lobo), Euskera (Astaputz erraldoi) and French (Vesse de loup). I also discover that Pedo de lobo, Cuesco de lobo, Vesse de loup and even the scientific name for the species Lycoperdon all mean wolf’s fart. Astaputz erraldoi means an enormously vulgar farting person. Why? Because the mushroom propagates by exploding, releasing a cloud of brown spores into the air.

At that stage the puffball is indeed inedible but when young it is delicious, yet nobody eats them. Well, would you eat something called a “wolf’s fart”?

Beware: it seems that small puffballs have been confused with immature specimens of the deadly amanite phalloïde [see wikipedia for good pictures] but this one was definitely mature. It weighed 435g.

Basque farmhouse cheese – queso y requesón vascos

Wednesday, April 21st, 2010

separating-curds-whey-webI say cheese and she smiles. She likes making cheese. “It is easy,” says Sagrario, “but hygiene is very important. Which is why I reheat the curds to kill ‘los gusanos.’”

¿Gusanos, como gusanos de tierra? – Worms, like earthworms?” I have just seen half a worm outside, left on the side of the plate after some bird’s breakfast. It looked more like a sausage than a worm.

“Yes,” she says.

We have come to see our neighbour making cheese in her farmhouse kitchen, above the cowshed. “There are 19 of them. They keep us warm,” she says.

“But I saw you buying milk in the supermarket yesterday!”

“Yes, all their milk goes to their calves. I make sheep’s cheese. The lambs have already gone.”

She grew up here and has been making cheese “since I was this high,” she says, indicating her knees.

(more…)

I don’t understand Spanish

Sunday, April 18th, 2010

lekaroz1I have joined a walking club. The first walk is 22km with 1200m of climbing in total. I estimate 7–8 hours. I don’t need lunch, I am told, but I don’t agree, so I take one anyway. We set out at 8:15 from Lekaroz. It is soon hard to keep up. After half an hour, I am getting hot, but nobody understands, so I take off my anorak and shirt and stuff them in my rucksack while walking. I am equipped for a hot day, a cold day, a rainy day. Everybody else has a metaphorical pocket handkerchief dangling from the end of a stick. In any case, if it rains, the droplets will be blown away in our slipstream without wetting us.

After an hour I am thirsty so I fish my bottle out of my rucksack and drink while walking. After four hours we stop to gobble down a maximum of food in a minimum of time. The high point of the day is when we reach the summit of the Unboto (800m) and stop for three minutes. We arrive back at Lekaroz, after five and a half hours of intense walking. (more…)

Spring in the Basque Country (1): ¿Madera? No, leña.

Sunday, April 11th, 2010

We have just moved to the Spanish Basque Country for three months, to learn Castellano.

It is still cold, so in the DIY shop I buy a bow saw and ask, in halting Spanish, where I can purchase wood for the fire. The man behind the counter replies: “¿Madera? No, ¡leña! – Wood? No, firewood!” My first lesson in Spanish

logs“I don’t know,” he continues. Nobody here buys wood. They just cut it down. If you don’t own a forest, you find someone who does.

Finally I discover a timber yard. I am confronted by a gigantic crane, with jaws capable of lifting several complete tree trunks at once, being driven by a man of similar dimensions. “I would like a few branches for my stove,” I explain timidly. No problem. I drive into the hanger and we fill up the back of the car. Kindling, he says, is free.

On a wall of the nearby town of Doneztebe is a poster. Four hulking blokes with their names and ages, four axes, a large pile of leña, a date and a time, and “1500 euros”. The rest of the poster is in Basque, so I have to ask one of our new neighbours to translate. It’s a private bet on who can cut the most wood, with the 1500 euros going to the winner. (more…)

Map of the GR10 walk GR10 Hendaye to Gabas GR10 Gabas-Luchon GR10 Luchon to Mérens GR10 Mérens to Banyuls