Posts Tagged ‘Aude’

Mediterranean snow

Tuesday, March 9th, 2010
Vines in the snow

Vines in the snow

Today, snow has been slathered like sun-cream onto the Mediterranean beaches. In our village, the houses have icicle fangs biting into the wind. The Montagne d’Alaric (600m), the first bastion of the Corbières as they rise out of the plain, sparkles. We can’t go to work because the roads are blocked.

Two days ago, I was in the garden weeding the broad beans, in a tee-shirt.

“In my lifetime,” says Marc, importantly, “I have only seen this much snow three times, and never in March.” Marc is 60 years-old. “It is horrible,” he adds.

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88%

Sunday, November 1st, 2009

autumn vineyards“88%,” Alain says. “Can you imagine it, from one year to the next?” You are still doing the same job, working just as hard, but your income drops by 88%!” The Agriculture Ministry has just released the official figures for the département of the Aude. In 2008 net income was only 12% of 2007’s.

Veronica and I have been invited to lunch at a shepherd’s hut on the slopes of the mountain which overlooks our Corbières village. We are looking down at the vineyards in the valley. The weather has suddenly turned cold and the vines have put on their autumn coats.

“The red, that’s Carignan,” Alain continues. Our host, now retired, used to grow grapes. “The bright yellow-green, that’s Grenache, the mottled yellow-brown, that’s Syrah. It’s all going to disappear. All those vines. And nobody has any idea what’s going to replace it.”

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The Cathars – religious sect or retail sector?

Saturday, August 29th, 2009
The “Cathar” castle at Peyrepertuse

The “Cathar” castle at Peyrepertuse

Thirty years ago this religious sect simply didn’t exist. But now Cathars are everywhere. Much more effective than Jehovah’s Witnesses or Scientologists, they can be found in the local supermarket, in motorway service stations, and even on Mediterranean beaches.

Although the Cathars were a significant force in the 13th century, they had long been relegated to the dustbin of history. Thirty years ago, to all intents and purposes, they didn’t exist. Yet this summer will resonate across 800 years with the echo of the drums which announced the Cathars’ destruction. This summer will tinkle to the sound of Cathar merchandising, as the cash registers take their tithe. The Cathars have been resurrected, modernised, trivialised and, above all, made profitable. A religion which rejected materialism has become a tool of that most modern, most powerful, of religions: consumerism.

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Map of the GR10 walk GR10 Hendaye to Gabas GR10 Gabas-Luchon GR10 Luchon to Mérens GR10 Mérens to Banyuls