Posts Tagged ‘Catalonia’

Strange days in Catalonia

Friday, August 20th, 2010
the roof of the Vapor Aymerich, Amat i Jover (architect, Lluís Muncunill)

the roof of the Vapor Aymerich, Amat i Jover (architect, Lluís Muncunill)

Terrassa: 214,000 inhabitants and the fourth largest city in Catalonia, but you haven’t heard of it. Forget Barcelona, iced by the modernista architect Gaudí – but with signs, in English, forbidding urinating in public. Forget the quaint fishing village of Calella de Palafrugell, and the Costa Brava – with its multilingual waiters. Terrassa is the real Catalonia, untainted by tourists.

But being authentic has its downside. Think: the Spanish equivalent of Basingstoke. After all, Basingstoke is authentically English – though not many people’s destination of choice. So why did we pick a holiday in suburbia? Because it was free, literally. We had signed up for a house swop, without worrying too much about the details.

On our first day we walked to where we thought the town centre should be, through anonymous housing estates, past tawdry rows of shops and their fast-food “Frankfurts”. Their ubiquity might well explain the excessive number of dental clinics, but fails completely to account for the laser epilation parlours. (more…)

Eyne to Núria and back

Friday, August 20th, 2010
Isards in the Eyne valley

Isards in the Eyne valley

An ordinary weekend, walking in the Pyrenees. Completely ordinary but still magic. On Saturday, we climbed the Eyne valley, sauntering through the flower beds, our footsteps bathed in colour. Then we saw the marmotte suburb on the hillside opposite us, their holes linked by a marmotte-sized highway, although only a couple of them were braving the heat. Above, at the pass and on the frontier ridge (2800m) there were long ethereal views down to the plains on both sides. But the real highlight was the isards.

We have just crossed the Pyrenees, from Eyne in the Pyrénées-Orientales in France to the sanctuary of Núria in Catalonia in Spain, and back again. 2200m of climbing over two days, in beautiful weather. Nothing dramatic happened, although in Núria on Saturday evening the watery sausages – believe me, it is possible for sausages to be wet – should have caused a riot.

On the frontier ridge between Eyne and Núria

On the frontier ridge between Eyne and Núria

On the return journey, on Sunday, we had just settled down to eat lunch by the river Eyne when we saw an isard on the slope opposite. And then another, and another. A dozen in all. Old and young. One, clearly a dominant male, with a yellow collar. Gambolling, leaping… and fighting. Close by, ignoring us. More interested in a rival herd, than in us, they were defending a strategic point, though at first we couldn’t make out why. Then I remembered the woman with a donkey who told us that she had just brought a sack of salt up for the cows. We hadn’t seen where she had left the sack, but it must have been that precious taste that the isards were fighting over. We watched the spectacle for more than half an hour.

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Map of the GR10 walk GR10 Hendaye to Gabas GR10 Gabas-Luchon GR10 Luchon to Mérens GR10 Mérens to Banyuls

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