Posts Tagged ‘High Pyrenees’

The return of the living dead: the Pyrenean Ibex

Sunday, October 26th, 2014

Don’t miss the exhibition about the Pyrenean ibex in the château de Seix (Ariège), 1 July to 31 August, 14h30 to 19j00.

Pyrenean ibex 2.0

Five-year-old male ibex with tracking collar, recently released in the Ariège department © Jordi Estèbe, Parc naturel régional des Pyrénées Ariégeoises

Strange things have been happening in the central Pyrenees, in a triangle bounded by Cauterets and Ustou (Ariège) on the French side and Torla (Huesca) on the Spanish side. The Pyrenean ibex has come back from the tomb.

map of pyrenees showing GR10 and GR11The Pyrenean ibex (bucardo in Spanish, bouquetin in French, steinbock in German) was first reported extinct in 1825 but it actually survived until 6 January 2000, to become the first extinction of in the 21st century. Despite that, another Pyrenean ibex was born in 2009 and there are now thirty grazing in the French Pyrenees. What happened?

The three horsemen of the ibex apocalypse were hunting, inbreeding and loss of habitat.

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Why are long-distance trail blazes in Europe red and white?

Tuesday, October 21st, 2014
A red-and-white waymark like this indicates that you are heading in the right direction. Photo taken on the French GR10, the Pyrenean Way, near to la Rhune

A red-and-white waymark like this indicates that you are heading in the right direction. Photo taken on the French GR10, the Pyrenean Way, near to la Rhune

 

The first explanation I heard was that the waymarks are based on symbols used on the Way of Saint James. The pilgrims used chalk for the white upper stripe and blood for the red lower one. In their minds this symbolised the clouds above – the heaven at the end of the pilgrimage – and the bloody feet – the suffering – involved in getting there.

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Walking the Pyrenees: the French GR 10 or the Spanish GR 11?

Friday, September 5th, 2014
GR11: flowering pastures above Estos; in the background the Maladeta massif

GR11: flowering pastures above Estos; in the background the Maladeta massifmassif de la Maladeta

 

I’ve now walked the Pyrenees from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean twice. First on the north side, then on the south. Having written about the first trek (If You Only Walk Long Enough: Exploring the Pyrenees), I’m trying to put my thoughts together for my book on the southern option, the GR 11. [Update 2016. Book now published as Footprints on the Mountains: The News from the Pyrenees]

So what are the differences for a walker between the GR10 and the GR11?

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Heading for the Aneto (II): the Hospice de France

Saturday, September 22nd, 2012
Hospice de France

Hospice de France

After visiting Bagnères de Luchon, our next stop is the Hospice de France, where we are staying for the night. Reopened in 2009, the building originated as a staging post for pilgrims heading for Santiago de Compostela, then became a hostel for trekkers like us heading for the Aneto and the Maladeta.

Like the museum in Luchon, the hostel contains a poignant relic of the Pyrenees. It is also a question of death, in this case murder. The weapon is on display in the hostel dining room; we have already seen the corpse in Luchon, keeping Barrau company. The weapon is a collar and chain; the victim a bear cub.

The cub (and his sister) were found near the Hospice de France and brought back there “where they were welcomed with a bottle of milk.” (La Dépêche du Midi, 27 May 1952).

“And afterwards they killed them!”

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map of GR10

 
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