The Tour du Valier is a six-day wander in the high Pyrenees, with five nights in refuges. Automatically, you have less weight in your rucksack.

The terrain varies from bucolic to harsh, from nearly flat to steep; there are short sections secured by cables. Underfoot, the going varies from mud, through grass, to hard unforgiving rock. There is a destabilising field of scree north of the Col de la Pala de Clavera on the Catalan/French border, requiring attention.

Seix seen from the small hill to its north (access via the chateau)

Before starting, I spent the night in Seix, a large village with many facilities. The chateau is worth a visit, if only to see the exhibition on the ibex. Another possibility, if you have time to spare, is the fascinating Museum des colporteurs in Soueix.

One of the ibex in the exhibition

The last member of the Pyrenean sub-species died in 2000 but there have been new arrivals from Spain since 2014. These Iberian cousins are doing well, with about 650 in the mountains now.

River Salat with the Port de Salau in the background

I left my car in the carpark above Salau (see Navigation, below) and followed the river Salat up to its source. Salat means salty: the mountains here are full of minerals. The border with Catalonia is on the horizon. It is long but easy trek with 1100m of climbing.

There are bears here. Although they are rarely seen, they attack livestock, sheep in particular. The estive (summer pastures) of Pouilh at the head of the valley saw two sheep attacked a few days after I passed through. It seems to me that sheep are gradually being replaced by cows and horses, less susceptible to attacks.

However, the chances of meeting a bear are very low. I have been walking in the Pyrenees for 25 years and haven’t seen one yet.

The Port de Salau

The Port (pass) de Salau was a key link between Ariège, in France and Pallars Sobira in Catalonia. It is only 2087m above sea level and was frequented by travellers and merchants. Among them were the colporteurs who walked long distances to sell a wide variety of wares which they carried on their backs.

Path down from the Port de Salau to the Fornet refuge

In the XIX century the Bonabe forest on the Catalan side of the watershed was cut down and the wood exported to France on a cableway. The ruins on the pass date to that time.

Fornet refuge

The Fornet refuge is accessible by road, which makes it another possible starting point for the Tour du Valier. Opposite it is a display panel which explains the reintroduction of bears in the Pyrenees.

Path from the Bonabé valley to the Estagnous refuge

As elsewhere, the path is signalled with the red-and-white waymarks of the Grande Randonnée Transfrontalière. Here, the waymarks are accompanied by yellow ribbons, a symbol of the Catalan independence movement.

Cows happily graze at the Estanyet de Clavera, 2230m above sea level

The view on the other side of the Coll de la Pala de Clavera is daunting. It is a long way down.

The path passes to one side of the Lac Long and then down to the Lac Rond before climbing up again to the next refuge. There is much scree to be negotiated carefully. The snow patches were actually a relief!

The Estagnous refuge, above the Lac Rond

After dinner

After dinner, the clouds descended but it was still warm enough to sit outside. A welcome relief from the overbearing heat of the day.

Lauzets

After staying overnight in the Estagnous refuge, I climbed up to the ridge behind the building. Beyond the ridge is an area known as the Lauzets, the Occitan for small slabs or tiles. The slope is covered in stone, but it is easy walking. This is part of the Chemin de la Liberté.

Further along the ‘lauzets’ are interspersed with grassy patches.

The descent to the Lac de Milouga is steep but provided with metal steps on the more difficult sections.

The path climbs to the pass on the left

There are shepherd’s huts at intervals but little other sign of life apart from the livestock. I met nobody until I arrived at the Cabane de l’Échelle

Down below, the clouds were a welcome relief from the implacable sun. It was great to see the Esbintz refuge. Adeline, who runs it, is also a market gardener and her partner Mathias is a sheep farmer. So, the food mostly comes from the farm itself. The recipes, on the other hand, may come from anywhere. Delicious.

Esbintz

The next day, the path followed the Tour du Biros. Part of it is on an exposed slope. The path is non too wide.

In the forest

Then it delves back into the forest before descending to Saint-Lizier-d’Ustou and the Colline verte refuge. The rain started mid-afternoon and quickly developed into a storm. (By the way this is a commen weather pattern in summer. Aim to arrive at the refuges by 16h00.)

Goats at Rouze, after milking

The next day was overcast and damp at first, but not rainy. The Rouze hostel is another great farm stay.

Path down to Couflens

Couflens

Navigation

You can begin where you like but the classic starting point in France is the carpark at the Col de Pause, to the west of Couflens on the GR10. Unfortunately, there is now a barrier 5km away, so I decided to start my itinerary from the carpark above Salau. From there, the itinerary goes over the Port de Salau and down to Fornet. The next day will take you to Estagnous, with the possibility of climbing to the summit of Mont Valier (2828m). On the following nights, you will stay at Esbintz, the Colline verte and Rouze. From Rouze down to Couflens is an easy walk. I hitched back up to the carpark with no difficulty.

See Wikiloc for a GPS track of the Tour du Valier. There is also a series of GPS tracks of the Tour du Valier for each day, with more photos.