The Pyrenean Way (GR10)
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Hendaye to Banyuls: from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean
Hendaye-Gabas > Gabas-Luchon > Luchon-Mérens > Mérens- Banyuls
They won’t survive as far as Banyuls
How long is the Pyrenean Way (GR10)? Estimates vary wildly: 700km (435 miles), like walking from London to Edinburgh? Or 866km (538 miles), London to Aberdeen? A few clicks on my computer and the answer is there in black and white: the official start, the casino on the seafront in Hendaye, is 412km 959m (256.6 miles) from the town hall in Banyuls, the official end as the vulture flies. Apart from this nothing is certain. Landslides, unhelpful landowners, and even the FFRP, the French Ramblers’ Association, create diversions, for worse or for better. In addition, in some areas there are several different official routes, never mind the unofficial ones. And walkers add their own flights of fancy …
Some people walk the path in 30 days but for most it will take about 55, walking for an average of 7 hours. For those used to walking in Britain, this will seem slow progress: less than 10 miles a day for 7 hours walking! But walking the Pyrenean Way is not like walking in Britain, unless you are in the habit of climbing from the sea to the summit of Scafell Pike, England’s highest peak, and back, once a day, every day.
Porteille des Bésines: signpost at the highest point between Mérens and the Bésines hostel
There is only one series of guides worth taking with you on the Pyrenean Way. Published by the FFRP, the four books in the Traversée des Pyrénées series (in French) contain all the information you really need and nothing superfluous. They weigh next to nothing and, although I did meet one walker who was tearing out pages as he progressed, I think this was symbolic, rather than an attempt to lighten his load. The guides contain maps at a scale of 1:50,000, estimates of walking time, and particularly useful profiles of the path showing the gradients. Beware, however: they are not always very up-to-date, though some modifications are now noted on the FFRP site (see the catalogue of books for sale, at the bottom of the page relating to each guide).
On this site you will find short extracts from my book If you only walk long enough. For the whole story you can order a copy online from Amazon.
Hi – I am thinking of hiking up GR10 from Med up to somewhere in the Puigcerda area then to cross over to return to Med on GR11.
Start date??
Any comments on an early/mid June start? Is earlier poss?
Weather?
Will this be late enough to miss worst snows here (if a normal year)
The plan is to walk as far as I want then turn.
Thanks
Hi Nick
Start date: normally I would say mid-June but you can always take the risk. Certainly no earlier than 1 June. It is a good circuit, but the best bits are the highest and most likely to have some residual snow. If you are stuck you can go around Canigou, either to the North or to the South (Batère – Reguge gardé de St Guillhem – Mariailles) and then on the GR11 you can go from Núria to the Coma de Vaca refuge via the cami des Ingenieros and then on to Ulldeter rather than going up along the frontier ridge if you need to.
You are unlikely to get snow storms, the problem is residual icy snow on a slope, or an avalanche.
One way of crossing from the GR10 to the GR11 is to take the Petit Train Jaune from Bolquère to Bourg-Madame and then walk over to Puigcerda (3km). Another is to walk to Eyne and then up the Eyne Valley (should be in flower) over to Nuria.
Please report on snow conditions as this will be of great interest at that time of year.
have fun
Steve
Cheers Steve
Hello Steve,
I want to make the complete traverse of pyrenees by ski. Do you know somebody who can organize this?
Best wishes
Ralph
Hi Ralph
That would be quite an exploit if you mean E-W! Even though the two ends won’t have snow you would still have 400km to do. If you mean N-S it would be easier. You could try the Bureau de Guides in Luchon or Benasque in Spain. Good luck
[…] Any experience hiking in the Pyrenees initially depends on the physical geography of the land. The Pyrenees rise sharply from the Mediterranean in the east and then run some 412 km to the Bay of Biscay and the Atlantic Ocean to the west. Here they gradually run out of steam and soften into the green, mediaeval Basque landscapes of northern Navarre – and in particular the Baztan and Bidasoa valleys. Those with enough time, stamina and grit can spend 7 weeks hiking in the Pyrenees along the GR10 which stretches up and down some 866 km or so from Hendaye in the west to Banyuls in the east. The whole walk is beautifully described and rigorously documented by Steve Cracknell in his book: The Pyrenean Way. […]
Hi Steve, I am planning a hiking holiday based in gavarnie in August. Would there be enough day hikes accessible from there for about 5 days? I walked from luchon to benasque last year and met my cousin who walked the whole gr11. We walked together from benasque to vielha and now I plan to take my Mum to the Pyrenees. She wont want to hike point to point carrying kit hence the plan to stay based in one place and do day hikes.
Hi Jemma
There’s lots you can do from Gavarnie, and even more if you have a car available (if you don’t there are taxis). You will certainly be able to walk to the Cirque with its waterfall though this is only a half-day trek.There is also the hike up to the Refuge des Espuguettes and back, or if you want to push further continue up the Pimené, with one of the best views of the Pyrenees (because it is set a bit back from the main peaks). You can climb to the Brèche de Roland (best to go as far as you can in a car as the first bit isn’t all that spectacular). Or follow the GR10 towards Vignemale. So many possibilities!
Go for it.
Steve
Hey Steve. Been lurking on your amazing website for a while now. Having decided to hike the entirety of the trail this season and a place like this have been invaluable.
As a seasoned backpacker my plan is to wild camp as much as possible. Of course I want my backpack as light as possible and are looking for info about the mosquito situation?
Hi Emil
Great to hear that you are going for it! Mosquitos are not a problem: I’ve never been affected. You may get chased by horse flies in Ariège but there’s not much you can do about that except walk faster.
Have fun
Hi Steve
We live in center of france (Limousin) and are moving near to Luchon this year to be nearer the mountains !!
Passion for snowbaording last 20 years . Alps, pyreneese, and local massive cental. now as age aproaches have been doing some long hikes.
Read your book, followed up all the info and we are hooked.
Have walked many small GR routes.
What is your choice for a section of GR10 near Luchon,twp three day hikes and leave a car at finish to return home.
cheers steve
Hi Steve
Probably the best circuit for your purposes is Cauterets – Baysselance – Gavarnie – Luz St Sauveur – Cauterets. But I’m not sure exactly what you want to do with the car… The ‘problem’ with the GR10 is that it is linear and having just one car doesn’t get over this.
Hi Steve
Thanks for the route idea, have checked it out and looks OK for returning to start point, as you know difficult with public transport to return to start after 3 day hike.with out retracing your steps, Or you need to take car and leave at your finish point to return ..
Cheers steve
Hi Steve,
Thank you for your exceptionally helpful site. My partner and I are wanting to do a 3-4 day hike on the GR10 mid-next week. Are there any stretches where it would possible to get back to the starting point by public transport? (And, even better, get to the starting point by public transport, so we don’t need to hire a car?)
Thanks,
Yulia
Hi Yulia
Some suggestions:
but NOT Cauterets – Oulettes de Gaube – Gavarnie – Luz St Sauveur loop because too much snow, nor Planes to Mérens for the same reason.
I hope this helps. Steve
Hi Steve
I am enjoying reading your GR10 book, which offers good insight and I aim to walk it in 2019. (have done the SDW, TMW and Glyndwrs Way camping recently, about a week each). I am thinking mid Aug – end Sept 6 weeks, does this sound sensible?
In terms of the FFR guides, are they available there or do I need to buy and lug them all with me? Should I expect lots of midges or mozzies?
Thanks, Alan
Hi Alan
I’m glad you are enjoying my book. Yes mid-Aug to end of September sounds fine but six weeks is fast and doesn’t allow much time for resting or bad weather. I believe you can get the FFRP guides in Hendaye, though I would recommend buying them before and studying them. You will be able to buy the last two in Luchon. No midges or mozzies to worry about. (By the way, you don’t need a tent: there are hostels and free huts at reasonable intervals – though of course a tent has certain advantages)
Happy planning
Steve
Hello Steve
I am on the 2nd reading of ‘If you only…’, very well written and informative, as is this site, thank you.
I plan to walk the GR10 W end to E end if possible, starting around 12 August this year, after the Beacons Way in May and CtoC in June. (I walked TMB and Grindelwald circuit + others years ago, and Hadrians Wall, SDW, TMW and Glyndwrs Way over the last 2 years, since retiring). I love wild camping so will mostly do this. I have a few questions not seen above so any advice will be greatly appreciated please.
Although bear sightings are rare, do precautions of keeping food away from the tent etc apply (also boars)?
Am I likely to find a midge net useful?
I use a Sawyer mini filter to minimise water carrying, so am I likely to need tablets too?
I have all the 1:50k map extracts from my FFR guides, a gps with gpx file and open topo maps, plus latest Cicerone guide, but am I likely to benefit from the extra weight FFR guides too?
My fully loaded pack weight is looking like 13-14kg with 1.5l water and 2-3 days food (I need extra to avoid gluten).
I aim to finish around end Sept, but no major deadline.
Many thanks
Alan
Hello Alan
Happy planning!
Hi Steve
Sorry, just realised you answered my November questions. My tent is a plexamid so weighs about 650g.
Cheers
Alan
Hi Steve
Thanks for that excellent advice. I will look at the maps and starting earlier – and read the FFR guides before I go.
Kind regards
Alan
Reginald Edmunds writes:
I walked the GR10 from Hendaye to Banyuls Sure Mere in 2015 when I was 70.
If I can help? I started on 17th July and for the most part had glorious weather. I wild camped a lot and only had one problem. I camped in heavy rain and fog on top of a grassy dome mountain, at dawn I was surrounded by 5 domesticated sows, who all tried to get in my tent with me. No real
problem but it took me 30 minutes of swearing, shouting and waving my hiking stick at them before they left. I never saw any wild boar or a bear but I was bothered at one pint by a large white sheep dog. I got too close to his flock of sheep and he came at me barking, snarling and slobbering, I just took a few steps backwards and he stopped and wandered back to do his job. I waited for about 20 mins, the flock moved
away from me and so I just strolled on.
I took a small water filter tube with me, no tablets, worked a treat, I
had no problems at all.
My boots were Brasher Superlights they were fine!
My hike took me 50 days, I stayed in one hotel, 3 refuges, a few sites
and wild camped as well. I didn’t need a midge net.
I used the SityTrail app on my phone. Brilliant! Didn’t take a paper map
at all!
If you want any other information about camp sites or anything else just
let me know.
I’m seriously thinking of doing the GR10 again myself this year but time
from Banyuls to Hendaye. I too did Glndyrs Way last year, enjoyed it but
didn’t see one other hiker for 9 days. I’ve too have hiked the TMB, loved it!
Do you go on http://www.walkingforum.co.uk? loads of information there for
free, I’m on there as ‘gunwharfman’
Hello Reginald
Thanks for your helpful reply. Rather than bung up Steve’s site I will contact you on the forum.
Cheers
Alan
Hola, just found you very helpful site. THank you. Can you advise if walking from Hendaye to SJPP starting April 15th can be done with little snow load? Would i still need crampons? Are the huts open, amenaties available at this time or would i need a tent, all my backpacking gear? I am an experienced hiker (AT thru hiker, 3 caminos, Kili, +) but as i am going solo, first time in France, I am just checking on my preparation needs. I want to hike in the Pyrenees but as its the last 2 weeks of April i can’t get too high up in the mountains. I’d take any suggestions. gracias
Hello Ellen
In principle you won’t need snow kit for Heydaye to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port. If there is snow on the last leg you can stay down in the valley. You should be able to find a combination of refuges, gites, airbnb so that you don’t need to take a tent.
have fun
Hi Steve
Thankyou for your excellent website. It’s giving me some fabulous inspiration. I will be travelling by rail from hiking in the Lofoten Islands in August and I hope to have around 30 days available to hike as much of the GR10 as possible after Norway. I’d like, hopefully, to hike a continuous portion of the GR10 and take in as much nature, wildlife and beautiful landscape as possible as I’m a nature photographer at heart. I’d probably like to hike a good portion of continuous section from west to east, but I’d appreciate your advice on that please.
Can you suggest to me a starting and finishing location please? Very near rail access to each isn’t essential if buses or similar are not too far away from the rail station/s.
Thanks Steve.
Wayne
Hi Wayne
On the GR10, if you want to see the most nature, the central section is the most interesting. Start in Mérens and walk west to Etsaut. The advantage of walking this way is that if you don’t quite get there, you can get to a train station from Luz-St-Sauveur, Cauterets, or Gourette. Alternatively, you might like to consider the Haute Randonnée Pyrénéenne or the GR11 in Spain, especially the former, because it passes more time away from ‘civilisation’. But this requires much more mountain walking experience…
Happy planning
Thanks Steve, that sounds really good. Will that central section be long enough to fill 30 -ish days? If I have 30 days I want to make the most of them. Also, as one person, leaving no trace wild camping if that’s okay.
Thanks again,
Wayne
Hi Wayne, unless you are particularly experienced and fit it will fill 30 days. You can always continue… As for wild camping it is fine as long as only between 19h00 and 9h00 in protected areas and more than an hour’s walk from the nearest road.
Hi Steve, what a great resource you’ve put together ! Thankyou !
We are coming to the Pyrenees September 9th for about three weeks and am trying to put together a walk. We are experienced hikers though not so much on snow/ice. In the past we have done day walks from Cauterets, Gavarnie, Ordesa NP and Añisclo Canyon. This time I’d like to string them all together in one hike but am finding it tricky trying to do this and work out which high passes to take between France and Spain and the GR10, GR11 and HRP. Right now I’m looking at starting our walk in the vicinity of Estaut (or Astun?) and heading east across to vicinity of Vignemale\Gavarnie thence crossing over to Torla and Refuge Goriz from where we would continue east. Have almost 3 weeks to play with, preference is to stay in refuges. Can you offer any suggestions with high pass crossings ? Thanks !
Hi Camilla
It’s a great project. EntrePyr could be useful for you. Another resource is my page on transfrontier routes in the Pyrenees. And look at my account of walking the HRP: Somport to Gavarnie and Gavarnie to Bagnères-de-Luchon.
At that time of year you won’t need crampons but check that the refuges are still open after 15 September.
Happy planning.
Hi Steve, Thanks for your reply and advice – lots of reading and planning to be done ! Cheers
Hi Steve,
Great site, thank you very much for tips and inspiration.
My family and I are planning to make a 2 – 3 day hike this summer in the Pyrenees. We are based in Perpignan and would like a scenic and less arduous trip, preferably with hotels at the intervals. Can you point to a section in the eastern Pyrenees that would make for a good round trip, or maybe accessible with public transportation, so we can bus back to our entry point?
All the best
Simon
Hi Simon,
Since you are looking for comfortable accommodation you would be best to stick to the valleys. Either the Tet (accessible by train; good starting point Villefranche) or the Tech (accessible by bus, Arles to Moulin de la Palette and back could be interesting; or Amélie-les-Bains up to Batere (hostel) and back down to Arles). Or consider a walk along the coast, perhaps from Banyuls into Spain (again there is a treain that will bring you back to the start).
I hope this helps
Hi Steve, your website is really very handy and inspiring. Just wondered if you could offer us some advice please? We are planning on walking the GR10 from Etsaut to Luz-St-Sauveur in the first week of July this year. We have booked most of the accommodation but unfortunately our date to stay in the Refuge d”Ilheou is fully booked. We are now looking at having a very short day from Arrens-Marsous to Gite d’etape Les Viellettes (between Estaing and Lac d’Estaing) and then having a very long day walking from Gite Les Viellettes to Refuge du Clot at Pont d’Espagne. Do you think this long day is achievable or overambitious/unsafe? Do you know of alternative places we could stay if this does not seem feasible? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks Katie
Cauterets? But where after?
Hi Steve,
Thanx, I will check it out 🙂
Hi Steve,
I am researching for a 3-4 day trip at the end of August along the GR10 that is easily accessible by public transit or using a rental car. What route would you recommend for a group traveling down from Paris? We are also hoping to stay gites d’etape along the way.
Thanks very much for your help!
Maya
Hi Maya
Cauterets – Le Chalet du Clot – Baysellance – Gavarnie – Luz-St-Sauveur – Cauterets (or bus/train back from Luz-St-Sauveur). This is a magnificent circuit taking in the highest pass on the GR10. However, the accommodation is in refuges, not gites d’étape.
Otherwise Hendaye – Olhette – Ainhoa – Bidarray – St-Etienne-de-Baigorry – St-Jean-Pied-de-Port. There are more possibilities of staying in classier accommodation, and this route has less climbing.
I hope this helps.
Hi Steve, thanks so much for this site. Me and partner are hoping for a 4-5 day hike on the west side of the Pyrenees starting tomorrow. Can you recommend one, and suggest how to return to the car? We’re experienced hikers and dont mind a challenge. Also, are there sufficient water points on the trail for us to simply bring a bottle and our UV pen for sterilisation? Thanks in advance.
Hi Cami
You could do part of the Senda de Camille. Lescun – Linza – Selva de Oza – Arlet – Lescun. Between Selva de Oza you follow the northern variant of the GR11 to Aguas Tuertas and then over the col de Arlet. Or if you have more time do the whole trek. You will need to book the hostels if at all possible.
Or you have (further east) the Mountains of Freedom trek. Sky’s Door is rather harder.
I’ve summarised many of the cross-Pyrenees treks, and you could combine these.
Hope this helps
Hello! Will be hiking in the Pyrenees end of June arriving in Barcelona and taking bus to Ascun. Is there a way to connect up with the Gr 10 from here or another taxi/bus service that will take us to Etsaut?
Ultimately we would like to hike the section from Etsaut to Cauterets.
Thanks!
Hi Meg, I’m not sure where Ascun is, though it sounds familiar…
Hi Steve, I am hoping to cross from Hendaye to BSM starting Late June 2020 and have found your site very helpful so thank you. I have just discovered that the Rando Editions maps recommended by every guide book seem to be now unavailable, perhaps excepting the Bearn sheet. could you advise which are best currently available particularly for the Rousillon section. I hope to mix up GR10 and HRP so need the frontier to be covered. I have previously done yours around Gavarnie and Pic Carlit so have 1: 25000 maps for these bits. Any advice would be welcome. Cheers, Trevor.
Hi Trevor
Since you want to mix GR10 and HRP, the problem is that the national maps stop at the border, with only sketchy elements of the other side. I would recommend using the TopoPirineos maps which cover both sides. Download the maps (free), open them with GPS software and print them. (Of course, if you have a GPS you can put them on to it.) Otherwise you can get free maps of Spain online. This superb system shows the GR11 and goes slightly over the border but doesn’t show the GR10.
The French IGN maps are less detailed, but may be of use.
And then there are the Wikiloc maps and GPS tracks, which I find very useful on my smartphone.
Or just resign yourself to buying the maps from IGN France and IGN Spain!
Hoping this helps.
Thanks for that Steve, looks like the smartphone option may suit me best. Being now a “senior” hiker, I like the overview that maps can give compared to a device but accept that this may be a generational bias! Waiting to see what the Corona virus may do to travel plans but assuming a late June start, how do you think snow conditions might be this year? Cheers, Trevor.
Merci de noter que les autorités ont interdit la rando dans les Pyrénées à cause de Covid-19.
Please note that as of 20 March the French authorities have banned all walking in the Pyrenees.
Hi Steve,
Do you think it may be possible to hike the GR10 with a tent from mid August ’20 with the C19 restrictions?
Do you think visitors will be welcome in the area?
Many thanks
Paul
Hi Paul
Difficult questions to answer. I think it could well be possible, and easier with a tent. As for the welcome, I don’t think that it will be a problem as long as you aren’t coming from an area with many C19 cases.
Good luck.
Thanks very much Steve….
I ordered your book, looking forward to reading it soon…
Best regards
Paul
Ireland
Enjoy!
Hi Steve, Just finished ‘If you only …’ – a thoroughly enjoyable read. I hope you are keeping well. All the best, Tim (Tiddington & Alcester)
Hello Tim
Thanks for your kind words (a review on Amazon would be appreciated). Archaeology, 40 years ago, we are practically prehistoric!
best wishes, Steve
[…] Any experience hiking in the Pyrenees initially depends on the physical geography of the land. The Pyrenees rise sharply from the Mediterranean in the east and then run some 412 km to the Bay of Biscay and the Atlantic Ocean to the west. Here they gradually run out of steam and soften into the green, mediaeval Basque landscapes of northern Navarre – and in particular the Baztan and Bidasoa valleys. Those with enough time, stamina and grit can spend 7 weeks hiking in the Pyrenees along the GR10 which stretches up and down some 866 km or so from Hendaye in the west to Banyuls in the east. The whole walk is beautifully described and rigorously documented by Steve Cracknell in his book: The Pyrenean Way. […]
Hi Steve! My family and I are walking the GR10 this season, starting in Bagneres de Luchon. We’ll be camping sometimes. In August and September are biting insects a worry? We’ll have a ‘tarp tent’ and I wonder if I need to bring a inset bug net. Thanks!
Hi Brett
I don’t usually get bitten wherever I am, but others are more edible it seems. The only problem I have had was horse-flies in Ariège, but they are more of a daytime problem. However, if you are sleeping high up a second layer might be useful for the cold.
Thanks Steve, much appreciated.
Hi Steve,
How is it looking this year? A lot of snow or not so much? I have about a month and plan to start mid-late June (can move a bit, if needed). I need to carve out the most beautiful section of the route with public transport entry/exit. What would you advise?
Hi Olga
For snow you need to look at the Pyrenean webcams. I was near the Port de Salau (Ariège) last week. Snow started at around 1800m but the Pyrenees are 400km long and conditions vary. In order to answer your questions I need more info:
How long are you coming for? What mountain experience do you have?
Steve
Hi Steve, I’m thinking of combining the GR10 with the Camino Norte (and perhaps even the Camino Portuguese too) this summer, from late June. I walked 1400 miles across Britain last year taking in the UK’s 3 highest peaks too (in 74 days). But I’m a little apprehensive about doing the GR10 alone – not sure why. Is it easy to find campsites/accommodation along the route? Or do you need to book campsites or refuges days in advance? Is it OK to walk alone? Any advice would be great.
Hi Patrick
If you walk from west to east and you will regularly meet and re-meet other walkers. So perhaps do the Camino first? If you can afford it, stay in hostels. You won’t be alone. You don’t need a tent because there are lots of free huts, see Pyrenees refuges and cabanes website. Since you are on your own you only need to book a couple of days in advance max, except at a few more popular places, eg Bayssellance.
Have a great time!
Steve
Thanks Steve. That’s really helpful/reassuring. My reason for walking east to west is to be in the Pyrenees in the summer. If I started in Lisbon or Fisterre, it would be September/October before I got to the Pyrenees, and possibly the risk of snow?
Hi Steve,
We have done the GR10 in stages already (and loved it!!) but from early July are hoping to do it in one go. Three questions:
1) We have a personal locator beacon we purchased 8 years ago in NZ. Do you know if this would work in France, ie would the French rescue services respond to these sort of things?
2) Do we even need to bring the above? I presume that over 90% of the route has phone reception?
3) Would you advise booking ahead? We have always done this on previous trips but it comes at the cost of liberty eg you arrive at 2pm and really would have preferred to keep walking. (We will be bringing a tent). Hence we are seriously thinking about not booking ahead, or just a day or two at a time. I am not sure whether most hotels, chambre d’hotes, refuges will be booked at in July, August? We are not keen on the refuges so where possible would use the tent rather than a refuge anyway.
Many thanks! Alison
Hi Alison
I can’t say if the personal locator would work but as it relies on satellite that would be a question for your service provider.
Emergency services will respond if they get the message.
I estimate that only 50% of the route has phone coverage.
Best just book 1-2 nights ahead if there are only two of you. If you are more you will need to book more in advance. Beware, however, around 14 July and 15 August refuges may be full.
Have fun.
Hi Steve,
I’m looking for a backpacking trip to do next summer and came across the haute route pyrenées. I wondered if it’s a safe trip to do as a woman alone? As I want to do the whole trail of GR10 at once, it’s quite difficult to find a companion who also want to do the whole trip…
Thanks in advance for you answer!
Sarah
Hi Sarah
Being a woman alone is not a problem. But you must be able to navigate, be fit, and plan carefully. Note that there is a lot of difference between the HRP and the GR10.
Happy planning.
Hi Sarah,
We walked the GR10 recently. There were heaps of young people (mainly women) walking alone. They formed informal groups sometimes to walk sections together.
Cheers,
Brett