French Pyrenees GR 10 trail: a walker’s guide
Cet article est également disponible en: French
On Hendaye beach - at the start of the GR10
Several readers of If you only walk long enough have asked me what equipment they need for walking the GR 10 across the Pyrenees, how long it takes, which are the most interesting sections, etc. So here are my answers.
This is not meant to be a definitive guide – it is very much my personal advice. I believe that Traveling Light is the Only Way to Fly. It also saves on the knees and shoulders. And I am prepared to pay the cost of staying in hostels rather than camping. It would be great to have other comments and suggestions.
For a quick overview of the route see the section on navigation below. The Wikiloc maps show both the route and the (saw tooth) profiles.
What is the attraction?
Griffon vultures
The GR 10 is a classic mountain walk, large scale. It crosses France from one side to the other, links the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, and takes a whole range of mountains, the Pyrenees, in its stride.
The western end is lusciously green, the middle austere and rocky, but as the Mediterranean approaches, dry garrigue and blue skies take over. The walk visits all the well-known sights of the range – the Lac de Gaube, the Lac d’Ôo, the Cirque de Gavarnie – and nestles up to some of its highest mountains. One of them, the Vignemale (3295m), an optional extra involving crossing a glacier, can be tackled in a single memorable additional day (see below).
And yet, despite the sometimes rugged terrain, there are hostels to be found most evenings; the GR 10 combines days in natural surroundings with nights under a solid roof.
Hendaye to Banyuls or Banyuls to Hendaye?
Bidarray in the Basque country
It’s not the same. Most people walk from Hendaye on the Atlantic coast to Banyuls on the Mediterranean, probably because the official French guide and Paul Lucia’s guide are written like that. As there are only a limited number of hostels, this means you keep bumping into walkers met along the way – conviviality assured. Walking in the other direction must be a completely different experience, with more interaction with nature than with other walkers
How long does it take to walk the GR 10?
Typically between 45 and 60 days of walking 6-8 hours a day. Plus rest days. Plus a few days more if you follow one or other of the variants.
What is the best time of year?
The pass at the Horquette d’Arre (2465m), (Day 17 on a 60-day schedule) is covered in snow until about 14 June, sometimes for a couple of weeks more. At the other end of the season, the weather deteriorates from the beginning of October. So the ideal dates are 12 June to 30 September. Unfortunately in July and August it is hot and hostels may fill up early in the day, particularly between 14 July and 15 August.
How many people walk the GR 10?
Between Gavarnie and Luz-St-Sauveur on the GR10
I estimate that from mid-June to mid-September, about 10 people leave Hendaye every day, with the intention of walking a significant part of the GR 10, though most of them will take several years to do it. Only one or two people leave Banyuls in the other direction. Some days I saw almost nobody; other days, particularly around popular centres I met 10-20 other walkers. Many parts of the GR 10 are also suitable for shorter walks.
Is it safe to walk alone?
As long as you are good at map reading and stay on the path, whatever happens, somebody will turn up. Sooner or later. Being in a group won’t stop you breaking your leg, or save you from being attacked by a bear.
Are the bears dangerous then?
Marmottes (groundhogs) were reintroduced to the Pyrenees in the 1948; bears have always been there
Statistically speaking, no. You are more likely to be killed in a plane crash in the Pyrenees than by a bear. Nobody has been killed by a bear since the invention of the airplane, but the wreckage on the GR 10 on the slopes of Canigou is testimony to the unreliability of aircraft.
In fact, there are only 20 bears in the Pyrenees, so you are unlikely even to see one – which is why I have a picture of a marmotte here. You definately will see marmottes.
If you do see a bear it will probably ignore you. If you are still uneasy, extensive advice on bears is available on backpacker.com. Questions in the forum include such interesting topics as “Will backcountry sex attract a bear?”, “Do Tasers stop bears?” and, for the really paranoid, “Will my farts attract a bear?”.
Whatever you do, don’t wear a sheepskin coat. Several hundred sheep are killed by the bears each year (out of a population approaching half a million).
What are the other dangers?
Cauterets, one of the few towns on the GR 10, is decorated like a wedding cake
Heat. Thirst. The Pyrenees are a long way south and, although mountains get colder as they get higher, walkers get hotter as they climb them. The air gets thinner as well so there is less protection from the sun’s rays. In some areas there are surprisingly few springs. Dehydrated water (water purifying tablets) is useful.
Cold. Wet. There are glaciers not far away but they don’t cool the atmosphere much. The main worry is thunderstorms. The temperature can drop 15 degrees Celsius in as many minutes. Thunderstorms can occur at any time, but it always seems to me that they roll in round about 16h00.
Gravity. Not so much the danger of falling off a cliff, but the danger of carrying too much and wearing yourself out to the point where you become too weak – and fall off a cliff. See the equipment list below.
Dogs which think they are sheep. Pyrenean patous are dogs which have been brought up with sheep to the extent that they identify with them. They think they are sheep. They see their job as attacking anything else, other dogs and walkers in particular. Avoid coming between them and their flock.
Navigation
Banana trees in front of classic Basque etxe (houses) in the foothills of the Pyrenees
The French IGN publishes maps of the whole of the Pyrenees at 1:25,000 which are useful for short sections, but the GR 10 is 400km long as the griffon vulture flies (and 850km long as the rambler walks), so it would take a map 16m long to cover the whole walk. In any case sketch maps are included in the Paul Lucia’s guide, and detailed 1:50,000 maps in the FFRP version.
However, the best, though not the cheapest solution is a GPS with onboard maps. I have a GPS eTrex Summit HC (229 euros). Although you can just buy the two GPS maps needed for the Pyrenees (258 euros), you might as well buy the whole of France as it only costs 21 euros more.
Whether you buy the maps or not, you can always view and download the tracks from Wikiloc
Hendaye-Borce
Trail distance: 209.18 kilometres
Elevation min: 2 metres, max: 1,926 metres
Accum. height uphill: 12,286 metres, downhill: 11,654 metres
Borce-Luchon
Trail distance: 218.74 kilometres
Elevation min: 587 metres, max: 2,709 metres
Accum. height uphill: 15,595 metres, downhill: 15,251 metres
Luchon-Mérens
Trail distance: 236.81 kilometres
Elevation min: 534 metres, max: 2,374 metres
Accum. height uphill: 16,726 metres, downhill: 17,055 metres
Mérens-Banyuls
Trail distance: 185.8 kilometres
Elevation min: 3 metres, max: 2,480 metres
Accum. height uphill: 9,873 metres, downhill: 12,145 metres
Hostels and huts on the GR 10
Goats at Rouze, in the Ariège
You can always carry your home on your back – and save money – but have you seen how fast snails move? A tent (and all that goes with it) is not essential equipment for the GR 10 and adds greatly to weight. With good planning you can always have a roof over your head, though some of them may be a little precarious.
When I walked the GR 10, I tried to arrange my overnight stops at intervals of 6-8 hours walking apart – any longer turns enjoyment into endurance.
Think hours. Forget distances, they are meaningless in the mountains. Count 300m climbing or 500m descent per hour and even then you will be doing well.
The FFRP guide gives reasonable timings for a fit walker who is used to carrying a full rucksack.
Huts and shelters (cayolars, cabanes, orrys)
Lac d'Estaing
According to Pyrénées – cabanes et refuges, a wonderfully useful site, there are 775 huts and shelters in the Pyrenees, many of them on or near to the GR 10. The site gives details (in French). The huts are free, but some are locked or occupied by a shepherd, others semi-derelict. Nothing can be taken for granted, even the existence of a roof, so arrive early. I do know of a few which are as comfortable as some refuges gardés, but they are exceptional.
Hostels (refuges gardés)
Pyrénées – cabanes et refuges lists 63 though some that I have stayed in are missing. Evening meal, bed in a (mixed) dormitory, breakfast, and a picnic lunch will come to about 42 euros. This may seem expensive for basic accommodation, but the costs of running a refuge are high, given the transport difficulties. Blankets are always provided but a sheet sleeping bag is essential. Most provide sandals. Booking one or two days in advance is fine, though if you are really stuck they will find you a space on the floor. Many have no mains electricity so hot water may not be available (or may be possible for a small fee). You will need to carry cash for payment.
See also le Guide gites d’étape et refuges.
Bed and breakfast (gîtes d’étape)
Cork oak near the Mediterranean end of the GR 10
A step up from a refuge gardé, a gîte d’étape will cost 5 to 15 euros more. You will still need a sheet sleeping bag but are more likely to find rooms with 2-4 beds available. Booking is essential. Pay in cash, or French euro cheques.
Hotels
There are hotels, and sometimes no cheaper alternatives, in the few (small) towns along the route.
Sections of the GR 10 without organised accommodation
There are a few sections where trekkers need to sleep in a hut, or walk a very long way in one day. These are the only sections where a sleeping bag is necessary.
The main problem is in the Ariège. The official slogan for the département used to be “Terre courage” and I interpret this to apply to the GR 10. Useful information can be found on the site of the FFRP Ariège. See also their list of services proposed by the gîtes and hostels on the GR10 in the Ariège (Acrobat).
The walking times given below are taken from the FFRP guide.
Gabas to Gourette (8h50)
There are huts at Cézy clearly visible from the GR 10. At a push it should be possible to do the whole leg in one day, thus obliviating the need for a sleeping bag until you reach Eylie d’en Haut in the Ariège (about Day 33 on a 60-day schedule).
Bagnères de Luchon to Fos (about 10h00)
Fisherman on the river just north of Luchon
There is a new gîte d’étape at Artigue which means that this section can now be split over two days.
Apart from that there are two huts at the Cabanes de Peyrehitte (one is reserved for the shepherd). There is a water trough a little further along the GR 10.
Eylie d’en Haut to Esbints (3 days, 2 nights – 19h40)
This used to be a particularly difficult section from the point of view of accommodation, with two consecutive nights in huts, but there is a new gîte at the Pla de la Lau. Unfortunately the stage is still a little too far to be done in two days, one after the other.
- Day 1: Eylie to Gîte Auberge Maison du Valier (Pla de la Lau) 9h35
- Day 2: Gîte Auberge Maison du Valier (Pla de la Lau) to Esbints 10h05 (no thank you!)
Lac d'Aubert in the Néouvielle National Park
So the followings huts (listed west-east) may be useful
- The Cabane de l’Arech
- Cabane de Besset
- Cabane du Trapech du Milieu
- Cabane du Pla de la Lau has now become the Gîte Auberge Maison du Valier. Great news!
- Cabane d’Aouen. This is in two parts, one of which is reserved for the shepherd in summer, so there are only two places.
- Esbints. Not only the gîte at the end of the struggles, but also a great place to stay.
- After Esbints there is another new gîte d’étape in St Lizier d’Ustou.
Goulier to Rulhe (4 days, 3 nights)
The most difficult section of the GR 10 accommodation-wise.
- Day 1: Goulier to Siguer 4h05
- Day 2: Siguer to Cabane du Courtal Marti 5h30
- Day 3: Cabane du Courtal Marti to Cabane d’Artaran 5h40
- Day 4: Caban d’Artaran to Refuge du Rulhe 5h45
- Siguer. There are now two possibilities here. Ask at the mairie (town hall) for the keys to the room near the salle des fêtes. Or, there is the more interesting possibility of Le Petit gîte du Siguer. Not only will Fabrice Scheffer let you stay overnight for free, but he will also feed you – it’s up to you to decide how much you wish to pay! He can also provide food at the Cabanes du Courtal Marti and Clarens.
There is a new small café/general store in the village. - Cabane du Besset d’en Haut at Col de Sasc – there is a concrete hut a little way down the slope but there is no door or window. To be avoided.
- Cabane du Courtal Marti. A much better alternative to the Cabane du Besset d’en Haut is this former shepherd’s hut only an hour further on.
- Cabane de Clarens. In bad condition but there is still a roof.
- Cabane d’Artaran.
- The ski resort on thePlateau de Beille is 30mins walking from the Cabane d’Artaran. Angaka can provide tents and food if booked in advance. For more information ring 05 61 01 75 60. I haven’t tried this, but they are well organised: I have been dog sledding with them.
There is also a restaurant at the ski resort, open at lunchtime.
This is the last possibility before the refuge de Rulhe, as the Cabane de Beille d’en Haut is private, though I was told by a waiter at the ski resort that part of it was available for walkers. Further along, the Cabane de Poussiergues may be useable but don’t bet on it.
Basco-bearnaise sheep, just arrived for their summer holidays
Mérens
This gîte is closed for 2010. It is possible to sleep in the Chambres d’hôtes du Nabre or on the municipal campsite. The campsite has several tents with duvets available for walkers. Ring 05 61 02 85 40
Equipment
As a result of walking the GR10, having lugged anything from 12-18kg on my back, I revised my ideas of “necessary” items. On a recent 4-day walk round – and up to the top of – the Posets (the second highest summit in the Pyrenees, 3375m), I carried the following (plus crampons and piolet, not necessary for the GR10). I don’t see any reason to carry any more on a longer walk.
My GR 10 kit list
| GR 10 FASHION |
g | notes |
| boots | 2160 | with high sides which are great for my ankles – but far too heavy |
| anorak | 775 | Gortex |
| trousers | 304 | lightweight trousers with detachable legs (Columbia) |
| tee-shirt | 160 | synthetic so that it dries quickly – not cotton |
| belt | 97 | |
| underwear | 80 | |
| socks | 74 | |
| TOTAL | 3650 | |
| ACCESSORIES | ||
| water | 1548 | 1.5 litres |
| rucksack | 953 | 37 litres Forclaz ultralight from Decatalon |
| winter fleece | 731 | |
| 4 GR10 guides | 640 | contain maps at 1:50000 |
| food for the day | 500 | |
| camera | 273 | |
| first aid kit | 246 | |
| 2 tee-shirts | 238 | |
| shorts | 217 | top half of lightweight trousers |
| pole | 202 | |
| battery charger | 194 | |
| waterproof leggings | 177 | |
| GPS | 173 | with integrated maps |
| sun cream | 149 | |
| wallet | 142 | |
| Mars bars | 130 | |
| spare batteries | 111 | |
| phone | 108 | |
| sheet sleeping bag | 101 | silk |
| travel towel | 97 | microfibre (Boots) |
| Swiss army knife | 86 | |
| shampoo | 80 | |
| toilet paper | 78 | |
| hat | 78 | |
| head torch with batteries | 78 | |
| 1 pair socks | 70 | |
| emergency blanket | 61 | |
| glasses | 54 | |
| toothpaste | 31 | |
| soap | 30 | |
| earplugs | 30 | |
| plastic bags | 25 | |
| plastic cup | 23 | |
| Compeed | 18 | |
| toothbrush | 17 | |
| water purifying tablets | 13 | |
| cigarette lighter | 12 | for lighting fires in emergency |
| pen | 9 | |
| whistle | 9 | |
| TOTAL | 7732 |
Things I don’t think necessary include:
- sandals (provided at most refuges – otherwise walk around in socks)
- deodorant – positively dangerous it as it stops you sweating naturally
- a razor, even if you have better-looking legs than I do.
Other kit lists
- http://www.pyreneeshike.com/kitlist.html (34.2lb, 15.5kg)
- Mountain bug (no weights given)
- Mountain is good (21kg plus water)
My best bits
Hourquette d’Ossoue, the Vignemale, and Gavarnie
The Cirque de Gavarnie is one of the best-known images of the GR10
To my mind the best section of the GR 10 is the detour which goes from Cauterets to Luz-St-Sauveur via the Hourquette d’Ossoue (2734m) instead of directly to Cauterets. Most people miss it out, which is a shame. It starts with a 3km-long waterfall up to the Pont d’Espagne. Then there is the Lac de Gaube, one of the defining sights of the Pyrenees (get there before 9am and have it all to yourself). Followed by the long, long Gaube valley, with the dark north face of the Vignemale at the end, and the pass at the Hourquette d’Ossoue. A short diversion takes you to the top of the Petit Vignemale (3032m) which overlooks one of the larger glaciers in the Pyrenees.
An overnight stop in the Bayssellence refuge will give you time next day to saunter down to Gavarnie, sign into the hostel, and visit the Cirque. Victor Hugo variously called it nature’s coliseum, a hippodrome, a Parthenon, a cathedral, a Kremlin, boas rolled one above the other, the mouth of a volcano, a storm trap and, beginning to let his imagination run away just a little, a Tower of Babel turned over and imprinted in the earth like a seal.
Our guide on the Vignemale glacier
Better still leave leave the visit to the Cirque until dawn the next day and only walk as far as Gèdre that day. After that you have a rollicking roller-coaster path down to Luz-St-Sauveur to rejoin the main route.
Grand Vignemale
If you take the above variant, there is the opportunity to climb the Vignemale (3298m), crossing the Glacier d’Ossoue. You will need crampons and a guide, but both can be arranged at the Bureau des Guides in Cauterets.
Canigou
On a clear day the Mediterranean can be seen from the top of Canigou
You can walk round the Catalans’ favourite mountain, but the official GR10 between the refuge de Mariailles and the Chalet des Cortalets, is a long detour. Much more interesting – and quicker – is the variant which goes to the top of the mountain (at least on a fine day). There is a bit of hands-on stuff just below the summit – but don’t let the name “La cheminée” – the chimney – put you off. It is perfectly possible with a rucksack. And once you have hauled yourself up to the cross, there is an incredible view of the Mediterranean.
I would just like to thank you for your humourous but massively useful website here, it has – with the use of the Cicerone guide – been fundamental to my planning for my imminent trip, and I think one should really tip one’s (broadrimmed sun) hat to anyone who shares their valuable knowledge like this on the net – it makes such a difference. Beautifully laid out site as well. So many thanx
please dont waste your valuable time replying, this is just to say thank you.
Peter
ps. I am a JJ Cale lover too – must be something in the air!
What an excellent website, so informative, it is this kind of find for me that turns a dream into a reality as the facts provide the foundations stones to build for the big trip!
I intend to thru-hike the Pyrenees at the start of next summer, this has given great insight on many topics and now I can be plotting and scheming throughout the cold months!!
Regards, Paul.
Hi, I am planning on walking the GR10 with my brother in 2014. We are both in our early 50s and I keep asking myself will I be fit enough. We have startd some training walks with heavy ruckscks and so far its going ok but we are planning to take camping gear, I know that you say travel light and stop in the refuges and cabins but we are thinking that they will be crowded noisey with mainly youngsters in them, they are expensive. We are both soicial people but also like a bit of peace and quite at night.What are your thoughts?
You’re planning well in advance! But it’s is not a bad thing after all. If you are used to hiking in Britain, the main difference in walking the GR10 is the climbing. You don’t say if you are training on hills. The GR10 is more or less the equivalent of climbing Scafell Pike every day. Although the distances walked are mostly relatively small (less than 20km) this more than makes up for it. So hillwalking is what you need.
As you say I recommend travelling light. A heavy rucksack is punishing on the knees, particularly on the descents, but it is true that staying in refuges adds to the cost. Also you will be closer to nature if you wild camp. I reckon that for camping, with a light-weight tent, food and water you should be aiming for no more than 14 kg including the weight of the rucksack. (For lightweight rucksacks see http://www.pyreneanway.com/blog/2012/01/le-sac-a-dos-le-plus-leger-au-monde-probablement/)
If you do stay in refuges you’ll find that the other walkers are mainly your age (young people can’t afford them) and most people are well behaved. They are also getting up early in the morning. Cabins (unstaffed huts, free) are more unpredictable but I’ve never had problems, apart from the lack of comfort.
In any case, enjoy yourselves! Please feel free to ask supplementary questions.
thanks for the reply, we are training on hills. I think we will do a mixture of both camping and staying in gites. We are training early but work commitments are stopping us from doing the walk earlier and anyway we need as much training as possible because niether of us have ever tried anything like this before. It might kill us be we will enjoy it.
Keep in touch. I’d particularly like to hear how you get on…
Steve
What a good website.
I have just finished walking the G R 5 from St Gingolph to Nice over 2 years, and am considering doing the G R 10.
I plan to go from West to East as the guides do.
Would plan to do 8 to 9 hours a day, but to stay in Gite Etapes each night if possible.
Would probably start my walk around 24 August 2013 for 10-12 days, doing it over 2/3 years.
Will it be similar to the G R 5? Jeremy Corke 10/10/2012
Hi Jeremy
I’ve only walked small portions of the GR5 but as far as I can gather it is pretty similar to the GR10, with a variety of terrains, including some walking over 2000m. In any case your first year will be mainly in relatively low zones. The first high pass is the Hourquette d’Arre (2465m). I reached there on day 17 (but I was only walking 6-8 hours a day). There are also plenty of gîtes d’étapes and hostels at the western end of the Pyrenees, though fewer in the Ariège. On the other hand, unless you walk very fast or do more than 9 hours a day I don’t think you will be able to do the whole walk in 36 days.
Best wishes, Steve
Just done our first hard training day, climbed glyders, Snowdonia, only a 5 miler but it opened our eyes. Not sure if the GR10 will be as steep. The descents were painful on the knees, very steep. Overall not too bad, next step will be a much longer and incorporating at least 3 night wild camping. Am I too old for this? 1 year 8 months to go.
Of course you’re not too old. I’ve been looking at pictures. Did you walk out on the Cantilever? Looks impressive.
Yes I walked onto the Cantilever but nearly broke my neck, it was damp and the rocks were like ice.The views, when the mist cleared, were well worth the climb.
First off thank you very much for all this information! It is fantastic.
I wish to hike the entire GR10, however the only time I have is between May and July…i was quite saddened to read that snow may obstruct until mid-June. I still wonder if it is possible for a beginner hiker to begin in mid-May?
Hi Jeff
Glad the information was useful but starting mid-May would be very risky. If you have an ice axe and crampons and know how to use them you could do the GR10 before mid-June, though avalanches could be a problem. You could do the two ends at that time but not the middle. Let me know if you need any more details.
Steve,
If your walking in mountains with your house on your back, walking poles are amust. Standing on the flat your elbows should be at 90 degrees. Shorten them for long inclines, lengthen them going down hill. Give you extra stability on rough tracks. They give you 20<30% extra range and less strain on your knees/quads.
Hi Bob. Thanks for mentioning that. You are right. I tend to under-rate walking poles, carrying them, but only using them when my knees start to ache. I’m sure this is bad practice and I would be better off using them more. But on rough ground they slow you down and when you need to use your hands they are a positive danger. I was once walking on a narrow ridge (the Cambre d’Aze, in the Pyrénées-Orientales) and felt so unstable with the pole impeding progress that I threw it away!
HI I was just wondering which place exactly is best to start walking from Hendaye? just follow the river up?
I would like to stay on the true g10 in France.
Planning on leaving early this summer.
Also could you recommend a good hostel/hotel in Hendaye that caters to the hiking types?
thanks in advance!
Hi Ian. I don’t have any particular recommendations for Hendaye accommodation, but as you will still be respectable at that stage any hotel will do. As for where to start, the official answer is at the Casino on the sea front. And dipping feet in the Atlantic before setting off is a bit of a tradition. Good luck.
Hi Steve,
Thanks for sharing you experience on your site with a lot of information!
My friend and I are interested to walk a part of GR10 this summer (end August, start September). Which part do you recommend to walk, knowing that we have time for about 17-20 walking-days, we like to walk about 6 hours a day, we want to go there by train/last part by bus?
Thanks in advance,Ingeborg
Hi Ingeborg. The GR10 passes through varied countryside and in 17-20 days you should have time to walk about a third of the path. Let me know how much recent mountain experience you have and what kind of thing you are looking for and I’ll make suggestions.
Our last hiking tour was in Turkey, 35-40 degrees, 500-1000 m height difference per day . Two years ago we walked AlpenPassRoute in Switzerland. That was maximum reach for us. Also we walked Adlerweg in Austria. We are looking for beautiful mountain walks, warm huts for the night, max 6 hours walking per day. Do you have a suggestion ?
Thanks in advance, Ingeborg
==============
2013/4/4 Steve Cracknell
Hi Ingeborg
From what I can see the Alpen Pass route is 350km and 19500m climbing in 19 days, so about 18km and 1000m climbing per day.
The whole GR10 (as I did it) was 49000 climbing and 950km, over four years. I took 63 days including 3 rest days; most days involve between 600 and 1500m climbing and 15-25km distance. That is between 6 and 8 hours walking per day (including short rests but excluding lunch). By and large, when there is more climbing there is less distance to do. It sounds quite similar to the Alpen Pass route. But you could take it slower than I did.
If you only had a week I would suggest the Basque country, starting in Hendaye, for something easy; or Cauterets-Vignemale-Gavarnie-Luz-Cauterets for something more mountainous.
However, since you have three weeks this is my suggestion. I have been trying to keep the walking time to less than 6 hours, with a refuge (hostel) or hotels in the towns at the end of each day. However this isn’t always possible – see the notes below. The times are based on the FFRP guide, but I haven’t checked them in detail.
day start at time
1 Gourette 05:10
2 Arrens 03:00
3 Estaing gîte les Viellettes 04:35
4 Illhéou 02:45
5 Cauterets (town) 02:00
6 chalet du Clot 04:40
7 Bayssellance 05:20
8 Gavarnie 07:45
9 Luz (town) 05:00
10 Barèges 05:40
11 refuge d’Orédon 08:25
12 St Lary (town) 05:30
13 Germ 05:25
14 Granges d’Astau 02:45
15 Espingo 04:00
16 Luchon (town) 06:30
17 Cabane de Peyrehitte 06:00
18 Fos 02:00
19 Melles 06:00
20 Araing 06:00
Notes
•Baysellence needs to be booked well in advance, but there is always the alternative of the Oulettes de Gaube
•Gavarnie-Luz is long, 7h45 hours – but you could hitch; there may even be busses. There is another hostel near Gavarnie at Gèdre but this only cuts an hour off – which has to be added to the previous day.
•The Refuge d’Orédon to St Lary is 8h25 (the refuge de l’Oule, half way, will be closed this summer). But here again you could hitch and I’m practically certain there are busses.
•The cabane de Peyrehitte is a very basic hut with water. No mattresses. You would need a sleeping bag for there, but there are blankets at all the other stopovers, so you would only need a sheet sleeping bag for them. (see also below)
I hope this helps. If you need any more info, let me know
===============
Hi Ingeborg
I realised that there is a new refuge at Artigues (between Luchon and the Cabane de Peyrehitte) which isn’t on my list and means you don’t have to stay in the Cabane de Peyrehitte.
Best wishes
Steve
===============
On 07/04/2013 19:33, Ingeborg Scholten wrote:
Thanks for your detailed advice! We will study it and make it beautiful trip!
Thanks very much!
Ingeborg
Hi Steve,
So glad to have found this website, thanks for sharing all this information. We are hoping to hike a small section of the GR10 next month in late may (14th-22nd), probably just from Hendaye to St Jean Pied-de-Port. Will this section be ok in May, or do you think we will encounter any difficulties with snow and ice?
Above you say that booking in advance for gites d’etape is essntial, but I can’t find any information online for gites in the areas we would stay in, so perhaps camping would be a safer bet. We are used to carrying tents etc. on our backs as long as we don’t have to carry cooking equipment.
If we are only visiting for a week to ten days, is there a particular section that you would recommend we do, to make the most of it (currently we are looking at the first section as I said, but this is mainly for ease).
Any information you can give us would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much in advance!
Megan.
I’m glad you find the site useful. For your dates Hendaye to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port is a good choice. Most of the high Pyrenees will still have snow at that time and near the Mediterranean there will be only about 5 days walking possible (from Arles-sur-Tech to Banyuls) because the area around Canigou could still be snowy. The only problem at the western end of the Pyrenees might be between Bidarray and St-Étienne-de-Baïgorry, where the GR10 takes to the hills, but you will always be able to get through in the valley.
Here are some suggestions for accommodation.
See also this useful site, though it doesn’t mention hotels http://peyo.free.fr/refuges.htm
You won’t need to stop in all of these places, especially as the first four are quite close together.
Let me know if you have any further questions. I’d love to hear what you think of the walk and see some photos.
Steve your website is great and it hss inpsired me to do the whole GR10 one day! However, I would like to try a small part in August. I have five days/four nights starting and finishing somewhere accessible by public transport to Toulouse. I am thinking about starting at Luchon and going West. Do you have any recommendadtions for a good itinerary for four experienced and fit walkers doing about 6 hours per day?
Hi Dermot.
Luchon is a good place to start.
Day 1 Luchon – Espingo (or Portillon d’Oô, higher up the same valley, or Granges d’Astau further down it)
Day 2 Espingo – Germ
Day 3 Germ – St Lary
Day 4 St Lary – Orédon
Day 5 Orédon – Barèges then taxi to Luz-St-Sauveur where there are busses which connect to Lourdes and trains to Toulouse.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you want to know more.
Steve
Great thank you that’s a great help.Will get the map out and study this!
Dermot
Hi Steve
What a fantastic source of information! Thanks so much for sharing all of this.
Do you have any suggestions for 4 days of walking for two reasonably fit (but not incredibly fit) 50 year olds. We run and exercise regularly and do walk regularly but would probably not cope with 6 hours a day of strenuous hill walking for too many days in a row. We did a 13 mile walk yesterday in the Peak district and my legs are feeling it today. I am keen for us to walk the GR10 (and ideally do it all section by section) but don’t want to bite off more than we can chew (so to speak). We are keen on the hotel idea much more than wild camping….(I know, we are wimps!)
Many thanks for any thoughts you might have,
Alison
Hi Alison
13 miles in the Peak District isn’t bad! What counts is how much climbing you did. In any case, why not start at the beginning of the GR10? Normally Hendaye to Ainhoa is two days’ walking but you could split it into four.
Day 1 Hendaye to Biriatou. A very easy day, which you could do in an afternoon if you arrive early enough. 6km, 100m climbing
Day 2 Biriatou to Olhette. A long lunch at the Col d’Ibardin, or possibly later at the Venta de Inzola (Spanish hours). 15km, 500m climbing.
Day 3 Olhette to Sare. 12km 550m climbing
Day 4 Sare to Ainhoa. 12km 200m climbing
Taxi back to Hendaye or other destination. Try to arrange this in advance – I see there is a taxi in Espelette.
I hope this helps
Hi Steve,
Many thanks, this is really helpful!
We would probably like to have our luggage taken from one place to the next, while we walk each day. Some companies offer to do this, but from googling, it looks as though the local taxi companies will do this too.
So plan A – we start off on our walk each day, having rung a taxi company to take our bag and drop it off to the next place. Do you know whether this would be do-able do you think?
Also, if we did do this, it may feel too embarassing to walk just 6 kms on the first day, so we may need to combine day 1 and day 2 walks, in which case, do you have any thoughts what would our day 5 location would be?
Once again, many thanks!
Alison
When you were walking in the Peak District how long did it take you and how much climbing was involved (in feet or metres)?
It seems to me that with a bit of training before you set off you could be more ambitious, but let me know how long the 13 miles took.
Well it was probably around five and a half to five and three quarter hours of actual walking for 23 kms (it was pouring with rain and blowing a gale, so would not describe this as my most favourite ever walk I have to say.) We did 14 kms before lunch in 3 hours 45 mins with 300 metres ascent and descent. There was a total of about 450 metres of ascent and descent, in a circular route. Having googled it, we are a bit under the Naismith average (I have never heard of this before).
What do you think?
Any advice gratefully received!
Thanks, Alison
Go for it! The first few days of the GR10 starting from Hendaye are pretty much like walking in the Peak District, but warmer. So I estimate (combining the first two stages) your times would be (excluding rests)
Day 1 Hendaye to Olhette. 21km, 600m climbing = 7 hours
Day 2 Olhette to Sare. 12km 450m* climbing (revised estimate) = 4 hours
Day 3 Sare to Ainhoa. 12km 200m climbing = 3h30 hours
Day 4 Ainhoa to Bidarray. 25km 700m climbing = 7h30
The advantage of pushing on to Bidarray is that it is on a train line with connections back to Bayonne (see http://telechargement.ter-sncf.com/Images/Aquitaine/Tridion/62-AFFICHE-2013_02_04_13_tcm-11-67795.pdf). (There is a hostel halfway between Ainhoa and Bidarray if you can fit in another day.)
Do you really need baggage transfer? You don’t need to carry a sleeping bag (a sheet sleeping bag will do) and you’ll only be carrying lunch so you should be able to manage with less than 8kg.